Blocking for the Hot Mop
Blocking for Hot Mop Shower Pans typically consist of 2X10’s placed in between the vertical wall studs. If 2X10’s are unavailable, the use of 2X6’s stacked on top of each other to create a total of 12 inches high would be more than enough. If vent pipes or plumbing lines are in the way you may want to use a ½” plywood, or thin gauge metal to close the gap. When Hot Mopping a Shower the blocking adds strength and support for the shower pan felt paper.
Curbs, also commonly called the Dam, are most commonly constructed of three 2X4’s stacked “flat”on top of each other. What determines the height of the Dam is where the“drain top ”height is. The Dam should be a minimum 2” higher than the top of the drain. Put a level on top of the drain and make sure the Dam is higher to hold water from leaking over.
Hot Mop Seats & Benches
Seats and Benches are framed to the size and shape desired and sheeted with a solid plywood backing. Remember that we hot mop up the face of the bench, then onto the flat part where your butt sits, and then from there we go back up the wall 6” so remember to put a minimum of 6” blocking above the bench in between the studs.
Drains for Hot Mop consist of a clamping style. This is VERY IMPORTANT to create a gasket at the drain. Set the drain’s bottom flange flush to the floor. If there is a hole in the concrete that needs to be filled, I prefer the use of Pea-Gravel (It’s easy to fix if we need to correct a problem). Many people will supply only a new top. Make sure to remove the old top and scrape the old hot mop clean and test to make sure it fits (most do..)